woensdag 29 juni 2011

Let's hit the rock - first attempts on the Chief

The last couple of days we tried some routes on the Chief, but so far we didn't manage to top out anything. Sunday, the first day after we arrived, Red wanted to touch some rock, no matter where or what route it was, everything was fine for him. I was still a zombie, but in the end he convinced me to come along with him. As expected we fucked up a bit, the start of the route called Tantalus Wall consisted of some bushy mossy climbing. It really freaked Red out. When we arrived at the 3th pitch, we had to come down, a huge 20m offwidth laid ahead of us and we didn't brought the gear with us to attack this monster. Yesterday we retried it, climbing smoothly up to the 3th pitch which Red was going to do. It took him like at least an hour to kill the cruel offwidth beast. I never climbed an offwidth before, but I can tell you, never again, and surely not leading it, it so freaky!! Red is now my hero. The 4th pitch went through some trees and dirt to the Tantalus ledge. Here we decided to continue with the Cerberus route. No cracks here, but pure face climbing with again "modest" space between the bolts and really hard moves. I tried an 5.11d, which is like 7a or 7a+ but it was like climbing 8a in Freyr, and I couldn't do the thing.

Monday we tried the ultra classical Grand Wall route. But here to we couldn't reach the top. I'm not a crack jamming master yet. I really shitted my pants on a right facing corner, the Split Pillars, and Red had to do it. So we lost some time and had to come down again. But I'm also conquered my fears on a length a little bit lower, with bolts placed at least 10m apart from each other, easy route but scary.

Hails






1 opmerking:

  1. Alles bien met mister Red en Bompa Sam? Na het lezen van je bericht voel ik dat jullie binnenkort al die Amerikaanse tapetten van de rots trekken en El Cap met een Duvel in de hand solo gaan klimmen. Dit zou dan weer een mooie bevestiging zijn van jullie heerschappij over de klimwereld, na Bompa Sam zijn prestatie met het knallen van Esperanza a vue in Freyr, en Gonzales zijn vlotte winst op het Belgisch kampioenschap in mei, en zonder diskwalificatie voor overmatig metamphetaminegebruik deze keer! Toon ons wat jullie nog meer kunnen amigos!

    En Tim, contacteer me wanneer ik moet leveren, en beschrijf duidelijk hoeveelheid en locatie voor verzending. Ik heb hier een degelijke prijs bij een maat in Medellin.

    Le bonjour uit Colombia
    Tarzan

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